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Spark Plug Fouling?
I was making the observation during some dyno testing this
spring that I hadn't fouled a single spark plug this past
season, and maybe 1-2 sets last year, and I was trying to
identify why this would be. A couple of things come to mind;
oil and water.
This year I used Maxima TundraR (synthetic brand) oil, and
the year before, I used Torco 100% synthetic and Amsoil 2000
synthetic (all very good oils). I believe the switch to
higher quality oils has a bunch to do with it.
The other plug-eater is water; many a spark plug is replaced
because of water ingestion. It can be water that is sucked
into the engine when riding in powder snow, water in the gas
tank, or plain old condensation. First off, if riding in
light fluffy snow, make sure your intake foams are intact
and functioning and run some isopropyl alcohol in your fuel
(1 ounce per gallon). This will also clear out any water
that is in your gas; most gasoline has a small percentage of
water in it anyway.
The other source of water in your engine is via
condensation. Every time you start your engine, whether it
be car, truck or snowmobile, you should ALWAYS run it long
enough to get hot enough to burn away water (a by-product of
combustion) that is being produced (you know how water runs
out of your truck's tailpipe after you first start it?).
NEVER start a cold sled and drive it into a warm garage,
this is double trouble; water from combustion will be
sitting in the engine and exhaust, and the cold engine will
condense moisture from your warm, humid shop environment.
The next time you try to start the engine is when you very
likely will foul a plug. This kind of moisture is hard on
crank bearings, too.
Of course, if your carb jetting is too rich for the
conditions you will experience more plug fouling too.
The Diagram Below Shows The Parts Of A Spark Plug:
(Click To Enlarge)

The Photos Below Illustrates Common Issues Associated With
Spark Plugs: (Click To Enlarge)
Normal
Combustion
deposits are slight and not heavy enough to cause any
detrimental effect on engine performance. Note the brown
to greyish tan color, and minimal amount of electrode
erosion which clearly indicates the plug is in the
correct heat range and has been operating in a "healthy"
engine.
Mechanical
Damage
May be caused
by a foreign object that has accidentally entered the
combustion chamber. When this condition is discovered,
check the other cylinders to prevent a recurrence, since
it is possible for a small object to "travel" from one
cylinder to another where a large degree of valve
overlap exists. This condition may also be due to
improper reach spark plugs that permit the piston to
touch or collide with the firing end..
Oil Fouled
Too much oil
is entering the combustion chamber. This is often caused
by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn.
Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of
excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV
valve is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors
past the rings and valve guides into the combustion
chamber.
Overheated
A clean, white insulator firing tip and/or excessive
electrode erosion indicates this spark plug condition. This is often caused by over advanced ignition, timing,
poor engine cooling system efficiency (scale, stoppages,
low level), a very lean air/fuel mixture, or a leaking
intake manifold. When these conditions prevail, even a
plug of the correct heat range will overheat.
Insulator Glazing
Glazing
appears as a yellowish, varnish-like color. This
condition indicates that spark plug temperatures have
risen suddenly during a hard, fast acceleration period.
As a result, normal combustion deposits do not have an
opportunity to "fluff-off" as they normally do. Instead,
they melt to form a conductive coating and misfire will
occur.
Pre-Ignition
Usually one or
a combination of several engine operating conditions are
the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from
glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the
combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat,
cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug
wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the
engine or its operating conditions.
Gap Bridging
Rarely
occurs in automotive engines, however, this condition is
caused by similar conditions that produce splash
fouling. Combustion deposits thrown loose may lodge
between the electrodes, causing a dead short and
misfire. Fluffy materials that accumulate on the side
electrode may melt to bridge the gap when the engine is
suddenly put under a heavy load.
Splash
Fouled
Appears
as "spotted" deposits on the firing tip of the insulator
and often occurs after a long delayed tune-up.
By-products of combustion may loosen suddenly when
normal combustion temperatures are restored. During hard
acceleration these materials shed from the piston crown
or valve heads, and are thrown against the hot insulator
surface.
Detonation
This form of
abnormal combustion has fractured the insulator core
nose of the plug. The explosion that occurs in this
situation apples extreme pressures on internal engine
components. Prime causes include ignition time advanced
too far, lean air/fuel mixtures, and insufficient octane
rating of the gasoline.
Ash Fouled
A build-up of
combustion deposits stemming primarily from the burning
of oil and/or fuel additives during normal combustion
... normally non-conductive. When heavier deposits are
allowed to accumulate over a longer mileage period, they
can "mask" the spark, resulting in a plug misfire
condition.
Carbon
Fouled
Soft, black,
sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This
is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke, clogged air cleaner, or a
carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle
or seat, etc. This may also be attributed to weak
ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system
(carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder
compression
Worn
This plug has served its useful life and should be
replaced. The voltage required to fire the plug has
approximately doubled and will continue to increase with
additional miles of travel. Even higher voltage
requirements, as much as 100% above normal, may occur
when the engine is quickly accelerated. Poor engine
performance and a loss in fuel economy are traits of a
worn spark.

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