Spark Plug Fouling?
I was making the observation during some dyno testing this spring that I hadn't fouled a single spark plug this past season, and maybe 1-2 sets last year, and I was trying to identify why this would be. A couple of things come to mind; oil and water.

This year I used Maxima TundraR (synthetic brand) oil, and the year before, I used Torco 100% synthetic and Amsoil 2000 synthetic (all very good oils). I believe the switch to higher quality oils has a bunch to do with it.

The other plug-eater is water; many a spark plug is replaced because of water ingestion. It can be water that is sucked into the engine when riding in powder snow, water in the gas tank, or plain old condensation. First off, if riding in light fluffy snow, make sure your intake foams are intact and functioning and run some isopropyl alcohol in your fuel (1 ounce per gallon). This will also clear out any water that is in your gas; most gasoline has a small percentage of water in it anyway.

The other source of water in your engine is via condensation. Every time you start your engine, whether it be car, truck or snowmobile, you should ALWAYS run it long enough to get hot enough to burn away water (a by-product of combustion) that is being produced (you know how water runs out of your truck's tailpipe after you first start it?). NEVER start a cold sled and drive it into a warm garage, this is double trouble; water from combustion will be sitting in the engine and exhaust, and the cold engine will condense moisture from your warm, humid shop environment. The next time you try to start the engine is when you very likely will foul a plug. This kind of moisture is hard on crank bearings, too.

Of course, if your carb jetting is too rich for the conditions you will experience more plug fouling too.

The Diagram Below Shows The Parts Of A Spark Plug:
(Click To Enlarge)



The Photos Below Illustrates Common Issues Associated With Spark Plugs: (Click To Enlarge)
Normal
Combustion deposits are slight and not heavy enough to cause any detrimental effect on engine performance. Note the brown to greyish tan color, and minimal amount of electrode erosion which clearly indicates the plug is in the correct heat range and has been operating in a "healthy" engine.
 
Mechanical Damage
May be caused by a foreign object that has accidentally entered the combustion chamber. When this condition is discovered, check the other cylinders to prevent a recurrence, since it is possible for a small object to "travel" from one cylinder to another where a large degree of valve overlap exists. This condition may also be due to improper reach spark plugs that permit the piston to touch or collide with the firing end..
 
Oil Fouled
Too much oil is entering the combustion chamber. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber.
 
Overheated
A clean, white insulator firing tip and/or excessive electrode erosion indicates this spark plug condition. This is often caused by over advanced ignition, timing, poor engine cooling system efficiency (scale, stoppages, low level), a very lean air/fuel mixture, or a leaking intake manifold. When these conditions prevail, even a plug of the correct heat range will overheat.
 
Insulator Glazing
Glazing appears as a yellowish, varnish-like color. This condition indicates that spark plug temperatures have risen suddenly during a hard, fast acceleration period. As a result, normal combustion deposits do not have an opportunity to "fluff-off" as they normally do. Instead, they melt to form a conductive coating and misfire will occur.
 
Pre-Ignition
Usually one or a combination of several engine operating conditions are the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat, cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the engine or its operating conditions.
 
Gap Bridging
Rarely occurs in automotive engines, however, this condition is caused by similar conditions that produce splash fouling. Combustion deposits thrown loose may lodge between the electrodes, causing a dead short and misfire. Fluffy materials that accumulate on the side electrode may melt to bridge the gap when the engine is suddenly put under a heavy load.
 
Splash Fouled
Appears as "spotted" deposits on the firing tip of the insulator and often occurs after a long delayed tune-up. By-products of combustion may loosen suddenly when normal combustion temperatures are restored. During hard acceleration these materials shed from the piston crown or valve heads, and are thrown against the hot insulator surface.
 
Detonation
This form of abnormal combustion has fractured the insulator core nose of the plug. The explosion that occurs in this situation apples extreme pressures on internal engine components. Prime causes include ignition time advanced too far, lean air/fuel mixtures, and insufficient octane rating of the gasoline.
 
Ash Fouled
A build-up of combustion deposits stemming primarily from the burning of oil and/or fuel additives during normal combustion ... normally non-conductive. When heavier deposits are allowed to accumulate over a longer mileage period, they can "mask" the spark, resulting in a plug misfire condition.
 
Carbon Fouled
Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture. Check for a sticking choke, clogged air cleaner, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc. This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression
 
Worn
This plug has served its useful life and should be replaced. The voltage required to fire the plug has approximately doubled and will continue to increase with additional miles of travel. Even higher voltage requirements, as much as 100% above normal, may occur when the engine is quickly accelerated. Poor engine performance and a loss in fuel economy are traits of a worn spark.



               
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