#23 - Check all exhaust gaskets and joints for leaks. Depending on the location and type of gasket, you may have to replace the gasket, add some hi-temp silicone,
or simply clean and re-seal the joint. Exhaust leaks can damage under-hood components, reduce exhaust system performance, and allow the intake to suck exhaust back into the engine which really kills off performance.

#24 - Inspect all of the exhaust springs to make sure they're still there. Vibration makes these springs break and fall off. If enough of them fall off, your exhaust system will come apart at the joints, and then your sled will really get loud. This is no fun when you're 50 miles from anything and you don't have spare springs. Borrow springs from other sled's non-critical areas to get home in a pinch, or use some safety wire to hold the exhaust together long enough to get back.

#25 - Removing and installing the air box on sleds that require jetting changes is a pretty straight-forward process, but every now and then a gremlin can sneak
into the process and surprise the heck out of you. The rubber boots that mate the air box to the carbs should never be trusted; they can pop back inside of the air box, and the worst is when they don't wrap around the carb properly on the bottom of the carb. You can look at the rubber seal and it may look fine, but whenever possible you want to run your fingers around the carb and make sure there isn't an air leak. The bottom side of the MAG carb is the tough one to set or feel. Sometimes a dab of liquid (from inside the air box) on the rubber sealing surface will make it slide around the carb easier instead of bunching up the rubber and screwing up the seal.

#26 - When changing main jets in the carbs, pay special attention to whether your carbs use small spacing washers under the main jet. Sometimes this small washer comes out with the main jet, sometimes it stays up in the carb, sometimes it falls down into the float bowl, sometimes it falls out of the carb and drops down into never-never land under the engine. You need to know if your carbs have these or not. If they do, you need to keep a hand under the float bowl opening as you remove the
jet to catch it if it falls out. If it stays up in the carb, don't trust it to stay there; you may need to lightly tap or shake the carb to get it out, maybe even have to take a small
tool to coax it out. If you lose it and don't get it re-installed, the main jet will not be positioned properly in relationship to the jet needle and the fuel level in the float bowl.

#27 - Never pull on wires; only pull on connectors. If you pull on wires, they can and will come out of the connector and you'll have an open circuit.

#28 - Use de-electric grease in corrosion and moisture prone electrical connections. This will help to keep the juice flowing when and where it should be. Be on the lookout for black dust and residue in high voltage connectors, an indicator of arcing.

#29 - Don't over tighten spark plugs. Most everyone cranks in their spark plugs way too tight. For example, the Yamaha spec is only 14 foot pounds; that's not very much.

#30 - Leaking intake valves (your reeds) are not the road to peak power. If your sled is fitted with carbon fiber, it would be a good idea to occasionally check them for
wear and damage. Their lighter weight leads to wicked
tip velocity, which can break and chip away the tips.

#31 - Did someone say brake pads? Did you know your sled even has brake pads? Not many get checked, and fewer get replaced before it's metal-on-metal time. Most die from getting injection oil drooled all over them, then they don't work too well. If you should shower your brake system with oil, you'd better get the pads cleaned and dried out. Most important is to keep an eye on pad material thickness. While we're at it, when was the last time your brake fluid was replaced? That's what we thought.

#32 - Anytime you are disassembling something new on your sled, lay the parts out in the order of removal to help you get it back together right. The sooner you put it back together, the easier it will be. Taking some pictures with a digital camera is a cool way to see what you can't remember too. If you really want to screw it up good, take your box of parts into a shop and expect a different
person to put it back together.

#33 - Don't wait for your "low oil light" to come on before adding oil. Never, never, never. Chances are the light is too dim to see in bright sunlight, the sensor won't tell the light to come on, or you are doing all you can to hang on and simply don't have time to look at silly little indicators. Pistons and cylinders are not that cheap; oil and time are.

#34 - The amount of carbon in your combustion chamber and exhaust system has more to do with your carb jetting than it does the exact type of oil you're using, but both do affect it. It is wise to periodically remove the exhaust manifold and check the amount of carbon build-up; it can get to a point that it partially blocks the exhaust port and restricts airflow. This is more common with rich jetting and less expensive oils.

#35 - Don't let someone scare you into the myth that you can't mix oils in your injection tank. While it is a good idea to not pour in a different oil every time you fill the tank, the possibility of causing a problem when using name brand oils is actually very rare. If you find yourself needing more oil to make it back to your supply, don't worry about
adding a different brand as long it is a quality oil. We're talking about the OEM oils (Polaris, Yamaha, Ski-Doo, Arctic Cat) and good aftermarket oils (Amsoil, Torco, maxima, etc.). One of the better performing inexpensive petroleum oils we've used for several years is Phillips Index.

TRACKS:
#36 - If you're going to stud a track, Arctic Cat tracks historically hold up the best. Many riders will remove the stock track from their sled and install a studded Arctic Cat track.

#37 - Trail riders who want to leave the same track installed all year should not go with anything taller than 1.25", based on current track design and construction.

#38 - In many conditions, tracks with lugs shorter than 2" actually outperform the 2" tracks. Granted, in powder snow a 2" track will generally outperform a 1.75", but
you'd be surprised at how much riding is done in conditions where the shorter lug track is superior.

#39 - Longer is not always better either. Again, it depends on the snow conditions. Snow with little or no base is ideal for longer tracks; conditions where flotation is critical. Other times, the length is more of a determent. It all depends on the conditions.

#40 - The biggest single cause of track damage is track spin. Heat is #2 in our book. Anytime your track is spinning, it is prone to tearing a lug off. This includes loading sleds onto a trailer, spinning on the trail, or off-trail riding where a spinning track catches a log, stump
or rock. A spinning track is track damage just waiting to happen.

#41 - When conditions turn foul for hyfax, you need to be more concerned with your track than the hyfax. Many riders say that all they're going to do is melt down a set of hyfax by riding in these ice-hard or low snow conditions. Wrong. If the hyfax gets so hot that you're wasting a set of 100 miles, your track is also getting hot internally; too hot. It could be two years later that the track decides to exhibit signs of damage, and by that time you won't remember that day way back when that you burned up a set of hyfax in a day.

#42 - When it comes to balancing steering (amount of carbide or ski aggressiveness) to traction (number of studs), the amount of track on the ground is just as important as the aggressiveness of the track. This doesn't only apply to studs and carbides. The steering must be balanced to the traction, and this could involve spring preload settings, track lug height, track length and stud issues.

#43 - Different suspensions have different track tension requirements. Those who ride dirt bikes know full well how their chain gets tighter and looser as the
suspension travels through its arc. A sled is similar;
most riders run their tracks too tight, sucking up more valuable speed and power. You want the track tight enough to keep from ratcheting (drive axle cog slipping past the track) and to keep it from de-railing when side forces are applied (like hard cornering). Again, this depends more on the suspension design than the track. Anytime you make changes to the limiter strap length,
you should re-check track tension. Follow manufacturer recommendations faithfully.

ENGINE:
#44 - The single most important piece of information you need as a sled tuner is to know what RPM your engine makes it power at. All the mods and clutching in the
world is useless if you do not know this critical number.

#45 - ANYTIME you make changes to the airflow of the engine, the RPM you should be clutching to needs to be verified. Again, you need to know what rpm you should be clutched at. This piece of info is primarily dependent on the exhaust system; if you change a pipe(s), silencer, you must know how this affects the power output and make appropriate clutching changes.

#46 - Whenever the engine is placed under a heavier load, the engine's need for fuel increases. This includes clutching changes, gearing changes, conditions (deep, wet heavy snow). Carb jetting (and clutching) that is ideal for a short-run on hard pack will not be ideal for longer runs in higher load conditions. As you clutch your sled "heavier", the engine will need more fuel to maintain safe combustion temperatures.

#47 - Stock sleds are all geared high for average conditions. Usually, a sled is geared for a long pull on a hard flat surface at very frigid conditions. If you don't ride
in such ideal conditions, you may find lower gearing to work better for your riding conditions. If you make gearing changes, realize what set of conditions you may encounter that your sled is no longer calibrated for.
Again, knowing the proper operating rpm of your engine
is critical so you don't full shift out your clutches and the engine starts to over-rev.

CHEMICALS:
#48 - WD-40 is a far better cleaning agent than it is a lubricating agent. Use it to clean parts and remove stickers, but do not use it as a final lube. Wipe away any residue or excess and then apply a real lubricant. Two of the best spray lubricants we've found are Maxima MPPL (Multi-Purpose Penetrant Lube) and Energy Release Penetrating Lube.

#49 - Keeping your sled looking new is easier than trying to restore it. Two stand-out products for hoods and plastics are Maxima Spray & Shine (with Carnuba Wax) and Plexus. Spray & Shine is an awesome spray wax that can be sprayed right onto the sled, wiped in with a soft cotton towel (no paper products, wood fibers scratch big-time) and buffed with a clean towel for a deep shine and protective coating. Plexus also works good for hoods, but it far superior for Lexan and clear plastics like your windshield, goggles and face shield. Ideally, use Spray & Shine on the hood and areas where you want a glossy finish, Plexus on all other plastics.

#50 - Belt dust and engine grime are also very easy to
get rid of if you have the right kind of cleaner that doesn't destroy plastic, rubber, and alloys. We use Maxima Clean-Up, a heavy-duty emulsion type degreaser that is one of the finest and safest cleaners we've found. It is awesome for metal parts, bellypans and tunnels, as well as painted parts (but it will strip away any wax). Spray it
on and wipe it off, just keep it away from windshields. Lexan, fresh paint and oxidized metals. This stuff is totally awesome for foam air filters, too, and really does a good job at fabric stains, chrome, and rubber parts. We order it (and use it) by the case.

#51 - Nothing beats Rubbing Alcohol for surface prep for sticker or decal placement. Once a surface is clean, wipe it with Rubbing Alcohol to remove any residue, oil or wax and place your decal once the area is dry. Press the
decal on and work out any air bubbles, and the adhesive has a fighting chance of sticking.

#52 - Don't use a material protectant like Armor All (TM) on your seat cover. This will make it super-slippery and really unsafe to ride! Many times a citrus degreaser will do an excellent job at cleaning the seat cover and not change the material tackiness.

#53 - In the adhesive department are two worthy performers that can make unlikely participants stick together, including things like foam. One is Shoe Goo, and the other is called "Seal-All". Shoe-Goo can be found in just about every department or hardware store, and is
a good sealant and glue for plastic and rubber. It works great for patching or sealing holes in belly pans too.
Seal-All is in a little yellow and red tube and is magical stuff. It is very resistant to gas, oil, water and just about everything in a snowmobile. From rebel pieces of air box sealing foam to loose decals to tears and rips in seat covers, this stuff sticks where all others fail. This stuff is so good it can repair hoses and lines (along with some suct tape). Apply to a dry hose, wrap in duct tape, then apply another coating of Seal-All. Don't take a whiff though, it's got MEK in it which kills brain cells.

"Things You Never Leave Without":
#54 - Compass and GPS. Even if you consider yourself a master map reader and have a photographic memory of trails and intersections, a savvy trail boss will always
carry some sort of navigational aid. Being fifty miles into the woods (or hills) at temperatures below zero should
be enough of an explanation here. Most GPS units only indicate direction if you're moving, so carrying an actual compass is still a good idea.

#55 - Maps. Carry a map for the immediate area you're riding in, but also for adjacent areas you might just wander into. You never know when the trail will lead you down a new path, or if you drop down off the mountain into a new valley or canyon. Maps with GPS co-ordinates are most helpful. We actually take maps with co-
ordinates on them and transfer information to the trail maps. If we're ever questioning where we are, fire up the GPS and figure out which way you need to go to get out
of the woods or the nearest trail/road. This works great
for ATV & dirt bike explorations too.

#56 - Extra cash and a credit card. Whether it's for gas late at night, food along the way, or the unexpected emergency (parts, lodging, whatever) it is always wise to carry both extra cash and a credit card. Snow conditions can change and you just might not get the range you had planned on.

#57 - Spare drive belt. Never, and I mean never ride without at least one spare drive belt for every single sled in your group. A good group leader will verify this before blast-off. If I had $20 for every time a good ride was cut short by someone not bringing a spare belt for their sled...

#58 - Spare spark plugs. It used to be that a set of NGK BR9-ES plugs was good enough, but now days many of the Arctic Cats and Polaris sleds spec a different spark plug. We used to substitute some different brands of plugs, but not anymore. We only use the exact plug specified by the manufacturer. Only substitute a different spark plug when is a matter of getting home or not.

#59 - Tow rope. We carry a three-piece rope that ties to each of the spindles and to the tow sled. An extra piece
of rope is also handy for those odd circumstances. Always remove the drive belt on the sled being towed. Towing out of the backcountry or deeper snow may require you to tow the sled backwards; unbolt the skis and turn them around, and tow the sled out backwards. Tie the dead sled back bumper to back bumper of the
tow sled. Once you get the track off the ground, it is far easier to tow through deep snow.

#60 - Duct tape. Wonderful for face protection, goggle repairs, holding broken windshields and hoods together, we've even used it to hold together a jacket with a broken zipper.

#61 - Zip ties (cable ties). These are real handy for all sorts of odd repairs.

#62 - Pocket Multi-tool (Leather man or Kershaw tool). This way you've got many of the basic tool functions covered, even if you're too cheap or lazy to carry a real tool kit.

#63 - Waterproof matches or lighter. When it's cold and dark, a fire can save your life.

#64 - Isopropyl alcohol. Someone in your group will
seem to foul plugs, but a new plug doesn't take care of the problem for very long. Water in the carbs and combustion chamber doesn't burn too well, and it
doesn't matter if it is in the gas or is being sucked into
the air box. Add some iso to the gas, and in a few miles the sled all of a sudden comes alive. We see this several times each year and can not believe how many riders do not carry iso at all times.

#65 - Protective gear. It is used to be that a helmet was good enough. Now we ride with all kinds of protective gear, including a helmet, gloves, eye protection, leather boots, and chest protection (TekVest). We're not racing, but we recognize how easy it is to break a rib falling on a ski trip at 2 mph (or not moving at all).

#66 - Water. Forget all the other liquids, carry water. Riders who stay will hydrated have a greater endurance. Every organ and muscle in your body will thank you for a consistent water intake through out the day. Load up on water before you take off for greater range.

#67 - Ibuprofen. This is the best muscle preventative medicine available. The key is to take it before, during
and after strenuous riding to prevent muscle tearing and soreness.

#68 - Energy bars. This can mean Snickers, granola, whatever. Having some form of energy can save the day when you become tired and fatigued.

#69 - Tool kits. No, that little bag of tools that your sled came with won't cut it. Assemble a set of tools for your sled that has the things you'll need for common trailside adjustments and repairs. Wrenches should be able to deal with suspension bolts, track tension and alignment, suspension adjustments, loose throttle and/or brake blocks, loose handlebars, loose ski runners.


Years of experience and miles of riding make some more knowledgeable than others. But, we can all learn from the lessons old timers have already been through. Some of these tips already may be familiar, and some may be real eye-openers. Most are a matter of opinion, and few are actual service procedures. But, here and there will be items of insight certain to save someone from skinned knuckles, save time, or answer a question or two you may have wondered about.




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