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Well, it's hard to believe the Summer is over. Soon the
temperatures will be dropping and mother nature will
dropping a blanket of beautiful white snow on the area.
Once the snow hits the ground, a person's "wants", turns
into a "need" to have a sled. There are many reasons to
go with a used sled rather than new. Maybe your
girlfriend or spouse has taken a new interest, and
before you make a big investment you might want to make
sure they enjoy the sport. Your son or daughter may be
getting to the level where they can ride on their own.
Because kids will out grow the sled at an accelerated
pace, it's more practical to buy an older, previously
owned sled. Whatever your reason, below you will find
some tips to keep in mind while making the investment.
At the bottom of the page you'll find links to AbsoluteSnowmobile's Classifieds, as well as a link to
the Kelley Blue Book. Whether you are buying or selling,
the Kelley Blue Book is the industry standard and is
truly invaluable.
How Much?
Most snowmobile buyers have a projected budget for the
purchase of their used machine. Costs vary from year to
year, and locality to locality, as well as the time of
year you're looking. If you want the best deal, it won't
be for the Christmas season, but rather in the spring.
In general, however, you can expect to find used
machines priced in increments that match the development
of the modern suspensions, along with the performance
rating of the sled.
Obviously the least expensive sleds belong to the first
generation of snowmobiles - and there are still a few
around! They will have the old "peg leg" suspension. The
more high performance the sled, the higher priced it
will be.
The first improvement made to ride and handling was with
the development of independent front suspension. You may
find this in models as old as the early eighties,
although you'll still find a few peg leg models right up
to the nineties. Some of the first independents were not
the best investments - if you're looking at something in
this era, check it out with someone who has actually
ridden one! After the introduction of independent front
suspension, the manufacturers continued to improve both
front and rear suspensions. If you're looking at
specific machines check the amount of travel they have
and how advanced their suspension system was at the
time. Different manufacturers were front runners at
different points in the past twenty-five years, so it
pays to compare brands.
Things To Look For:
Every discerning buyer is interested in a few main
points:
1. General appearance. Has this sled had a good life, or
has it been rode hard and put away uncared for? Things
like torn seats and mangled hoods don't really tell you
how it will run, but they do give you a clue as to how
much of an investment in time and money the owner made
with it. The Bottom Line... If the sled
looks like it's in good condition, more than likely it's
been taken care of. If someone tells you it was
used by a female, i.e. wife or girlfriend, doesn't
necessarily mean the sled is better and hasn't been
driven off the trail a time or two...
2. Number of options. This is a particularly interesting
review for prospective owners of newer used sleds. Are
there handlebar warmers? Do they work? What kind of seat
- single or two-up? How about reverse? Just like buying
a good used car, working options add to the cost, and
more important, the value.
3. How much will the obvious problems cost? If, for
instance, you're looking at a sled with no windshield,
don't take the owner's word for it that it's less than
$50 to replace. And if the seat is cracked or split,
make sure you check out what re-upholstering or a new
factory seat cover will run you, before making an offer.
All of the stud manufacturers make recommendations based
on engine size and riding style for the best stud
application, number and pattern. For example, Woody’s
recommends 144 studs for a trail rider with your sled,
168 for an aggressive rider and 192 for a
high-performance/race rider. The length of the ski
carbide is also taken into account. The longer the
carbide, the more studs that are required. All stud
manufacturers have similar application charts for nearly
every late-model snowmobile.
Things to Look For Mechanically:
-Condition of wear bars [carbides] and skis
-Check that there's not a lot of slop (Free
Play/Movement)
in the steering
-Condition of sliders
-Missing track clips
-If studded, are they bent, worn or missing.
-Condition of drive belt - There should be no cracks or
missing lugs. (is there a spare?).
-Condition of the track - tracks will normally last
better on lower horse power sleds. However a really old
track may look excellent, but have deteriorated from age
and sun, as well as improper storage. If it appears to
have been sitting all summer, or even for years, on dirt
or cement, it's a good sign the track may not be as good
as it looks! Also inspect for tears or cracks.
-The Engine -- a compression test on a two stroke is not
always the most reliable indicator of the shape of the
engine. Low compression is definitely a sign of a worn
out engine, but you may get good compression readings
and still have internal problems. Try and see the back
side of the clutch for signs of oil leaks which will
mean a re-seal is required on the engine. A clutch will
look black from belt dust, not wet or slimy. A well
cleaned engine could hide that fact.
Ideally, the best way to buy a used sled is to take it
for a test run. Obviously, that's not always possible.
The alternative is to listen for a smooth running engine
- no popping or backfires! If you can set it on a stand
and rev it up, you can also see how smooth it shifts,
and how everything is turning.
I hope this gets you
going on the right path... It's worth a few bucks
to have a knowledgeable mechanic go with you to avoid
any future surprise breakdowns along the trail.
Although people won't necessarily lie, they won't be
forthcoming and tell you things if you don't ask the
right questions.
Think Snow!!!
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